PARIS (AP) — As Paris Fashion Week geared up for Dior Men on Friday, British designer Paul Smith went encyclopedic.

Here are some highlights of fall-winter 2023-24 menswear shows.

PAUL SMITH CHANGES CENTURIES

Smith delved into the history books for a thoughtful display that seemed to merge London from the 1970s with the city in the 1870s.

A quilted coat with checked cape demonstrated this perfectly. It flared out at the back looking as if it were fashioned on Baker Street and could have been worn by Sherlock Holmes if it came with a pipe.

Elsewhere, a high white collar had a prim 19th century feel, while a dark velvety coat with a big collar sported a beautiful textured thickness.

Such old-fashion musing gave fall-winter a more austere style than usual, but it was a welcome change.

The 1970s, a Smith touchstone, also were on abundant display. The designs included blown up checked coats, vibrant blue printed pants and loose colored suits with broad, rounded shoulders.

The best looks were ones that fused the two eras, such as a loose cerulean trench coat with voluminous layers, twinned with a striped blue silk foulard.