Inflation Has Hit the Bottle

Customers at fine restaurants and bars are noticing a new form of shrinkflation: weaker drinks and smaller wine pours.

It's not only personally vexing, but embarrassing for customers conducting important business meetings over a meal, the New York Post reports in “You’re Not Crazy, Wine Pours Are Shrinking.”
 

All over New York, from pubs to five-star restaurants, diners are astonished at how small wine pours—already known to be diminutive—are becoming.

Brian Hogan, an international investor, took an important client to one of his favorite Manhattan restaurants last month. The sommelier poured his guest’s Chablis, with a flourish.

Hogan’s business guest, usually mild mannered, felt insulted by the skimpy serve, summoned the manager and asked him to bring over a measuring cup.

“He thought the pour was ridiculous and offensive,” Hogan said. “When he measured, it turned out to be only 4 ounces.”

In this instance, the manager delivered more wine to the glass and apologized profusely.

As the Post puts it, “Inflation has hit the bottle. All over the city, from taverns to fine restaurants, diners are doing double takes as they receive reduced pours of wine at increased prices.”

Typically, a 25.4-ounce bottle of wine will yield four 6-ounce glasses. In 2022, with inflation at a 41-year high, many fine restaurants are meting out 4-ounce pours.

Says one downtown New York sommelier, at a new hot spot: “I worked for Danny Meyer, and we always gave 6 ounces. When I got here, I was quickly corrected and instructed to pour only 5.”

Wine blogger and certified sommelier Mark Fang says of a recent visit to Gruner Veltliner: “Normally, I get only one glass of wine, but this time, the pour was so small it didn’t last past the appetizer. I’m willing to pay for quality [but] I feel shortchanged when I receive a small pour.”

Out in the Hamptons, though, discerning customers will not stand for skimpier drinks.

“I hear that in the city, they are lowering servings and jacking up prices,” says Zach Erdem, owner of 75 Main and Blu Mar in Southampton. “Here, if you give people 5 ounces, they will scream at you!”